Started at Onion Valley trailhead. From there it's a long and gradual climb to Kearsarge Pass (11,760'). We dropped down to Kearsarge Lakes for the first night but if you're going on the Rae Lakes it makes more sense to stay on the high trail. You'll cross a small stream (very small in the fall). Follow that upstream a bit and there's some great camping, icy water, and great long views all without losing and gaining elevation. Also, since this route is very popular you can avoid crowds at the lakes.
From there we went to Glen Pass (11,926'), which is one cool, steep, rocky decline on the far side. Rae Lakes are very pretty but their popularity brought with it a lot of noise. It's one of the noisiest places I've ever backpacked to. I'd suggest staying up higher at some of the rocky lakes on the way down or to up and over to the very empty Sixty Lakes Basin. But do visit Rae Lakes, all of them. Quite nice lakes. Saw some bear scat along the shore of the largest one. Sixty Lakes does have a lot of lakes and is worth a day hike.
From there we went to Glen Pass (11,926'), which is one cool, steep, rocky decline on the far side. Rae Lakes are very pretty but their popularity brought with it a lot of noise. It's one of the noisiest places I've ever backpacked to. I'd suggest staying up higher at some of the rocky lakes on the way down or to up and over to the very empty Sixty Lakes Basin. But do visit Rae Lakes, all of them. Quite nice lakes. Saw some bear scat along the shore of the largest one. Sixty Lakes does have a lot of lakes and is worth a day hike.